Understanding Vintage Silhouettes-The Jazz Age, 1920s
The dawn of the 1920s found a world filled with dramatic political and social change. It was a decade of unprecedented economic growth and prosperity in the United States and more and more people were living in urban areas. An influx of wealth, the option to buy on credit and the availability of mass produced consumer goods encouraged spending. Luxuries like the car, household appliances and even ready-to-wear clothing were now available to the masses. Pre-war technology came of age in the twenties and technological innovations like the telephone and radio irrevocably altered the social lives of Americans. By the dawn of the twenties, Americans had more time and money to spend on new gadgets and entertainments.
Although the new consumer culture flourished, America stood at a crossroads between innovation and tradition. The revolution in morals, aesthetics, and everyday life that was sweeping through America didn’t meet with uniform approval. Tension and conflict between the youth culture and conservatives longing for the simpler life of bygone days created intense social unrest and reaction. The 1920s was a hotbed of change and conflict that all combined to create the free-wheeling, progressive, liberated attitude called the Jazz Age.
"The Flapper"/Life Magazine 1926 Iconic flapper caricature, Betty Boop
Although not firmly ensconced in 1920s society until mid-decade, the “flapper” became a staple of US pop culture. Women were now fully embracing their new found freedom and became active participants in what was formerly considered a man’s world. Although most young women in the 1920s didn’t adopt the flapper lifestyle, they did embrace the noteworthy fashions of the time and liberation from the corset was a symbol of this new lifestyle.
Early 1920s girdle, circa 1924 Abbreviated 1920s girdle...the garter belt
The iconic 1920s silhouette celebrated a young, thin, androgynous and athletic figure. Girdles (now replacing corsets as the foundation garment of choice) were designed to slim the hips, flatten the stomach and create a straight waistline. Progress made in the previous decade led to much more comfortable, flexible and streamlined options through the use of elastic panels and less boning that allowed for more freedom of movement. Although most women still considered some method of control and shaping a necessity, the more risqué abandoned the girdle altogether, opting for the more abbreviated garter belt or individual leg garters worn directly above the knee with the stocking welt rolled over narrow covered elastic bands.
The sleek silhouette of the all-in-one corselette Rear view of the abbreviated girdle in silk, rubber and steel in silk, elastic and boning, circa 1925 boning, circa 1928
A boyish flat bust was envied and desired and most women could only achieve this effect by binding their breasts. Bandeaus that supported breasts by compressing them were the bra of choice. These boneless, lightweight bras were a simple band of fabric with minimal shaping to give room for some fullness of the breast. While they sometimes had center front seams or gathering that distinguished the breasts this definition was very subtle and shouldn’t be confused with truly separate cups.
Decorative 1920s lingerie featuring the bandeau bra, drawers, chemise and all-in-one step-in or combination
The 1920s woman was too busy for time consuming dressing rituals and the new silhouette dictated a more abbreviated, streamlined underpinning. As skirt lengths shortened, the long petticoat and petticoat slip became obsolete. The 1910s combination morphed into a myriad of options in an effort to provide the sleekest layer possible under the new slender silhouette. One-piece undergarments like the chemise and step-in were favored and produced a sleek, uninterrupted line under foundations and outer garments. 1920s lingerie was cut on the-straight-of-grain in simple shapes with minimal seaming. Despite this seemingly innocent simplicity, side vents were often cut high on the hip bones for a flash of leg and crotch panels were positioned several inches below what might be considered modest. When a flapper went sans girdle and opted instead for a pair of garters and rolled stockings she must have felt an exhilarating sense of freedom! Although a boyish silhouette was the fashion, women preferred undergarments that were incredibly feminine. Light-weight ethereal fabric in a wide range of color was the trend. Silk crepe de chine was a particular favorite and it wasn't unusual to find lingerie in soft, exquisite cosmetic hues of pink, peach and rose as well as more unusual shades of green, yellow, blue and violet. Ivory and white were available for the traditionalist and black was considered fashionable and acceptable during the 1920s. Embellishments of lace insets and appliques, pintucking and labor intensive ribbon work were juxtaposed with abandon upon these simple canvases
The Roaring Twenties screeched to a halt on October 29, 1929, also known as Black Tuesday, when the collapse of stock prices on Wall Street ushered in the period of US history known as the Great Depression.
Next up...the 1930s...
