Understanding Vintage Silhouettes-The Teens, 1910-1920
Innovations in technology and science and flourishing creativity in the arts during the 1890s and early 20th century spawned great optimism and prosperity. The world at large was at peace and life was good for a great many people. Women were making great strides to attain a better life independent of men and were enjoying tremendous freedom unlike anything before. The movement to abolish the corset had begun in the mid-1800s and now the increased interest in a healthier, more active lifestyle raised real concerns about the adverse effects of tight lacing. As women became more active, the need for less restrictive clothing became apparent.
The change in silhouette...Edwardian Era thru the teens
The artificially exaggerated Edwardian silhouette was giving way to a slimmer, tubular shape that followed the natural contours of the body, taking emphasis off the waist and minimizing the hips and thighs. The definitive silhouette of the 1910s is exemplified by the clothing designs of Paul Poiret. Poiret’s introduction of the first “corset-free” gown in 1907 encouraged a more natural shape and embraced the new ideal: a lithe, elongated, high-waisted, full-bosomed figure.
The desire for a natural, uncorseted effect resulted in the development of lightly boned and more flexible foundations. The new corsets were constructed with a stiff, straight front busk and extended well down the thighs (sometimes almost to the knees!). The corset’s longer length eliminated the need for excessive boning. Boning was spaced in vertical rows through the torso but did not run the full length of the corset in order to increase movement and comfort.
The definitive corset silhouette circa 1910s
Many women now owned more than one corset to correspond to their various activities. The "Tango" corset is a great example of these specialty foundations. The Tango was a popular activity during the teens and women often removed their everyday corsets while dancing for more freedom of movement.
The Tango corset was constructed to free the waist from the restrictions of tight lacing and the wide criss-crossing ribbons which comprise the front panel added to the overall suppleness and flexibility.
The "Tango" corset...designed for flexibility and freedom of movement
The corset circa 1910 ended only a few inches above the waist leaving the breasts free and unsupported by the Edwardian corset’s extensive boning and tight lacing, necessitating the need for the bust bodice. The forerunner of the modern brassiere, the “Bien Etre”, was based on the concept of separating the corset below the breasts and creating two separate garments. This innovation was meant to aid movement by lifting the bust via shoulder straps as opposed to pushing the breasts upward by constricting the torso. These early bras were essentially an extension of the corset, lacing up the back and often times supported by boning.
By 1914 a simple darted band a few inches wide just covering the nipples and supported by fine straps began replacing the more cumbersome earlier bodice. The result was a lifted mono-bosom that was a bit higher than the Edwardian silhouette.
The boned and laced "Bien Etre" (L) & later model brassiere with a simple band and shoulder straps
In addition to the indispensible corset and brassiere, the long, slim silhouette of the 1910s demanded less bulky and lighter weight lingerie. Camisoles, knickers, combinations, chemises and petticoats continued to morph into more streamlined pieces to accommodate the narrow, tubular silhouette.
The devastating effects of WWI (1914-1918) in the later half of the decade brought the world to it’s knees. As a disillusioned population began to rebuild, peacetime brought a new culture that led to a free-wheeling, devil may care society…The Jazz Age of the 1920s...
